• Hey, guest user. Hope you're enjoying NeoGAF! Have you considered registering for an account? Come join us and add your take to the daily discourse.

"I Need a New PC!" 2024. 240 Hz OLEDs, PCI-Gen5, Path Tracing & Ray Reconstruction.

TVexperto

Member
Page 40-41 4 pin is 12v argb, 3 pins 5v argb 👍
thanks! really appreciate the help.

so this fan:

  • Material:plastic, rubber, PCB
  • Fan Rated Voltage:12V DC, 0.18A, 2.16W
  • LED Quantity:18
  • Bearing:Fluid Dynamic Bearing (FDB)
  • Fan Connector:4-pin PWM

is 12v, 4 pin right? so it means i can control it via motherboard software?
 

poodaddy

Gold Member
Are 4080 supers still sold out everywhere and marked up? I know it's silly but I want one at MSRP, (which is already still expensive honestly), and I'm not paying the markup, can't seem to find one :/. I love living in Maine, I really don't regret moving here, but there is absolutely nowhere near me to buy enthusiast level PC hardware, which I must admit I miss from when I lived in Seattle. I'm stuck with strictly online for buying hardware these days, and the market has gone ballistic.
 

draliko

Member
thanks! really appreciate the help.

so this fan:

  • Material:plastic, rubber, PCB
  • Fan Rated Voltage:12V DC, 0.18A, 2.16W
  • LED Quantity:18
  • Bearing:Fluid Dynamic Bearing (FDB)
  • Fan Connector:4-pin PWM

is 12v, 4 pin right? so it means i can control it via motherboard software?
not sure, reading around seems nzxt uses custom hw for rgb . sorry i can't be of more help. only used 5v argb fans till now
 

Dural

Member
Are 4080 supers still sold out everywhere and marked up? I know it's silly but I want one at MSRP, (which is already still expensive honestly), and I'm not paying the markup, can't seem to find one :/. I love living in Maine, I really don't regret moving here, but there is absolutely nowhere near me to buy enthusiast level PC hardware, which I must admit I miss from when I lived in Seattle. I'm stuck with strictly online for buying hardware these days, and the market has gone ballistic.

Best Buy appears to have it in stock.
 
So I'm new to the PC gaming scene and I'm looking to have mine built. Just wanted some opinions.

This first build is more affordable, but I've been told by a friend that the cooling system wouldn't be efficient enough. I picked i7 on this one. Thoughts?
GrUV85x.jpg



Second option I decided to go for AMD cpu. It's about $200 more but idk if I need to spend that extra or not
TFe0oax.jpg
 

HeisenbergFX4

Gold Member
So I'm new to the PC gaming scene and I'm looking to have mine built. Just wanted some opinions.

This first build is more affordable, but I've been told by a friend that the cooling system wouldn't be efficient enough. I picked i7 on this one. Thoughts?
GrUV85x.jpg



Second option I decided to go for AMD cpu. It's about $200 more but idk if I need to spend that extra or not
TFe0oax.jpg
My honest opinion its worth spending the extra $200 and getting the 7800X3D
 

Ironbunny

Member
So I'm new to the PC gaming scene and I'm looking to have mine built. Just wanted some opinions.

This first build is more affordable, but I've been told by a friend that the cooling system wouldn't be efficient enough. I picked i7 on this one. Thoughts?
GrUV85x.jpg



Second option I decided to go for AMD cpu. It's about $200 more but idk if I need to spend that extra or not


That MSI motherboard has a bad reputation with higher clocked ram. With 6000mhz you should be fine but anything above that is lottery to get work even if it reads in the mobo qualifications. (I have that mobo) Other specs look fine. Make sure to buy atx 3.x psu.
 
Last edited:

Pejo

Member
Ok GAF, surprisingly out of all of this, it took me the longest to pick out a PC case. The middle ground is completely gone and it's now just RGB puke with tempered glass fishtanks or plain monolith box. I had never heard of 'be quiet' as a brand before researching all of this, but they seem to provide good airflow and low noise. I was debating back and forth on going with a base 4080 instead of the 4070 TI Super but it just doesn't seem worth the extra money in this GPU market. I'm not shooting for pushing the bleeding edge graphically on games, I'd just like to play at native 4K with reasonable settings. My current 2070 Super cries out in pain when I try to play modern games even at 1440p, so it's time I upgrade.

Any last minute thoughts before I pull the trigger? I have my gaming PC hooked up to my OLED tv, so monitor is irrelevant. I'd also like a 4-8TB secondary drive eventually but that can be a Christmas gift to myself or something down the road.

 

winjer

Gold Member
Ok GAF, surprisingly out of all of this, it took me the longest to pick out a PC case. The middle ground is completely gone and it's now just RGB puke with tempered glass fishtanks or plain monolith box. I had never heard of 'be quiet' as a brand before researching all of this, but they seem to provide good airflow and low noise. I was debating back and forth on going with a base 4080 instead of the 4070 TI Super but it just doesn't seem worth the extra money in this GPU market. I'm not shooting for pushing the bleeding edge graphically on games, I'd just like to play at native 4K with reasonable settings. My current 2070 Super cries out in pain when I try to play modern games even at 1440p, so it's time I upgrade.

Any last minute thoughts before I pull the trigger? I have my gaming PC hooked up to my OLED tv, so monitor is irrelevant. I'd also like a 4-8TB secondary drive eventually but that can be a Christmas gift to myself or something down the road.


The difference between the 4070 Super and the 4070 Ti Super is relatively small, that it makes it nor worth the 200$ premium.
I would recommend going for the 4070 Super and upping the CPU from a 7600X to a 7800X3D.
 

GHG

Member
Ok GAF, surprisingly out of all of this, it took me the longest to pick out a PC case. The middle ground is completely gone and it's now just RGB puke with tempered glass fishtanks or plain monolith box. I had never heard of 'be quiet' as a brand before researching all of this, but they seem to provide good airflow and low noise. I was debating back and forth on going with a base 4080 instead of the 4070 TI Super but it just doesn't seem worth the extra money in this GPU market. I'm not shooting for pushing the bleeding edge graphically on games, I'd just like to play at native 4K with reasonable settings. My current 2070 Super cries out in pain when I try to play modern games even at 1440p, so it's time I upgrade.

Any last minute thoughts before I pull the trigger? I have my gaming PC hooked up to my OLED tv, so monitor is irrelevant. I'd also like a 4-8TB secondary drive eventually but that can be a Christmas gift to myself or something down the road.


The "low noise" for bequiet's cases primarily comes from the fans that come with their cases, especially so with the example you've chosen. That case also only comes with 2 fans, that won't be enough, you will need to buy more.

I'd suggest going for one of the following 2 cases and then pairing them with some bequiet silent wings or noctua fans (all in all it will work out cheaper that way):

Fractal Design north:

North_KV_6_Charcoal_Mesh-2560-1697x1200.jpg




Or the Corsair 5000D:


With the 5000D there are a ton of customisation options for the panels if you want to change up the look, for example:


839880__MG_1214.jpg



Case/aesthetics aside, there are a couple of other tweaks you should make:

Edit: the PSU you've got selected is also a SFF one, don't get it. Give me a second, I'll sort it out and send a pcpartpicker list.
 
Last edited:

GHG

Member
Pejo Pejo go for this instead:

PCPartPicker Part List: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/FtJKRK

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 7600X 4.7 GHz 6-Core Processor ($216.41 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Thermalright Phantom Spirit 120 SE ARGB 66.17 CFM CPU Cooler ($35.90 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: MSI MAG B650 TOMAHAWK WIFI ATX AM5 Motherboard ($199.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws S5 64 GB (2 x 32 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 Memory ($209.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Black SN850X 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($156.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: Asus TUF GAMING OC GeForce RTX 4070 Ti SUPER 16 GB Video Card ($849.99 @ ASUS)
Case: Fractal Design North ATX Mid Tower Case ($139.99 @ B&H)
Power Supply: Corsair RM850e (2023) 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($119.99 @ Amazon)
Case Fan: be quiet! Silent Wings 4 76.7 CFM 120 mm Fan ($19.89 @ Amazon)
Case Fan: be quiet! Silent Wings 4 76.7 CFM 120 mm Fan ($19.89 @ Amazon)
Case Fan: be quiet! Silent Wings 4 76.7 CFM 120 mm Fan ($19.89 @ Amazon)
Total: $1988.92
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2024-03-06 06:31 EST-0500

And get your windows here:


Like winjer winjer suggested, maybe look at upping to a 7800x3d if you can. That build has the potential to be further optimised in terms of price if you want to keep it as close to $2000 while achieving that even with the 4070ti super.

Edit:

With the 7800x3d:

PCPartPicker Part List: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/BsJKRK

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D 4.2 GHz 8-Core Processor ($368.58 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Thermalright Phantom Spirit 120 SE ARGB 66.17 CFM CPU Cooler ($35.90 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: MSI MAG B650 TOMAHAWK WIFI ATX AM5 Motherboard ($199.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws S5 64 GB (2 x 32 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 Memory ($209.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Black SN850X 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($156.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: Gigabyte WINDFORCE OC GeForce RTX 4070 Ti SUPER 16 GB Video Card ($799.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Fractal Design North ATX Mid Tower Case ($139.99 @ B&H)
Power Supply: Corsair RM850e (2023) 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($119.99 @ Amazon)
Case Fan: be quiet! Silent Wings 4 76.7 CFM 120 mm Fan ($19.89 @ Amazon)
Case Fan: be quiet! Silent Wings 4 76.7 CFM 120 mm Fan ($19.89 @ Amazon)
Case Fan: be quiet! Silent Wings 4 76.7 CFM 120 mm Fan ($19.89 @ Amazon)
Total: $2091.09
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2024-03-06 06:39 EST-0500
 
Last edited:

Pejo

Member
The difference between the 4070 Super and the 4070 Ti Super is relatively small, that it makes it nor worth the 200$ premium.
I would recommend going for the 4070 Super and upping the CPU from a 7600X to a 7800X3D.
Thanks for the tip. They both seem to be pretty comparable in price right now though, at least the ones in stock. I'm sure I could snipe a Super for less if I wait, but I'm over the purchasing process and just wanna get into the build. Thanks for the suggestion though!
Pejo Pejo go for this instead:

PCPartPicker Part List: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/FtJKRK



And get your windows here:


Like winjer winjer suggested, maybe look at upping to a 7800x3d if you can. That build has the potential to be further optimised in terms of price if you want to keep it as close to $2000 while achieving that even with the 4070ti super.

Edit:

With the 7800x3d:

PCPartPicker Part List: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/BsJKRK
Dude you rock, thanks so much for this. I am curious that both you and winjer winjer seem to highly recommend the upgraded CPU when UserBenchmark claims that there's little real world difference in performance, video editing or other CPU intensive apps aside I'm sure. It's not a "I don't trust you" thing at all, I'm just curious why.

The PSU looks nice. I had no opinion one way or the other, I only picked that first one because it was well reviewed, modular, and had the platinum rating for efficiency, so thanks for the suggestion on that. Thanks also for the tip on the RAM. I saw that most of these require RAM training and enabling bios OC settings to reach the fast speeds, so again I was just leaning on something inexpensive that reviewed well.

I saw both of those cases when I was searching, and pretty much every search ended up railroading me back to the Corsair 4000/5000 series cases, but there's just something about the aesthetic that doesn't jive with me. Though I do admit I hate spending 200~ dollars on any case in principle. I might mull that over one last time, but otherwise that build looks fantastic. I really appreciate you taking the time to help out.
 
  • Like
Reactions: GHG

winjer

Gold Member
Dude you rock, thanks so much for this. I am curious that both you and winjer winjer seem to highly recommend the upgraded CPU when UserBenchmark claims that there's little real world difference in performance, video editing or other CPU intensive apps aside I'm sure. It's not a "I don't trust you" thing at all, I'm just curious why.

Userbenchmark is by far the worst place to get advice for hardware. That site is a cancer upon consumers.
Please, for your own sake, do not use userbenchmark for anything.
 

Pejo

Member
Userbenchmark is by far the worst place to get advice for hardware. That site is a cancer upon consumers.
Please, for your own sake, do not use userbenchmark for anything.
I was unaware that the site wasn't trustworthy. I had used it in the past for various comparisons just because it's super easy and user driven, but I'll keep that in mind. Most of the sites I looked at showed very similar results though, that the 2 CPUs are pretty even in real world performance. I don't really read up on tech as it drops until I'm ready for my next build, so I'm probably missing a piece of the picture here.

 

winjer

Gold Member
I was unaware that the site wasn't trustworthy. I had used it in the past for various comparisons just because it's super easy and user driven, but I'll keep that in mind. Most of the sites I looked at showed very similar results though, that the 2 CPUs are pretty even in real world performance. I don't really read up on tech as it drops until I'm ready for my next build, so I'm probably missing a piece of the picture here.


Userbench is known to falsify data. Go to any hardware forum, and people will immediately call that site out for lying.
Those 2 other sites, I don't know about. But they seem the generic aggregator of synthetic benchmarks. Maybe not as bad as userbench, but also not good.

I recommend sites like Guru3d, Techpowerup, Techspot, Anandtech, Gamersnexus, etc.
These are trustworthy sites. Not perfect, because they are made by humans.
But they have a reputation that goes back several decades. They work directly with companies like AMD, Nvidia, Intel, Asus, Gigabyte, and many others.
They test real world applications and games. And have separate charts for games and applications. So we can see exactly how a GPU or CPU perform for each specific task.
And some applications might work better on some CPUs, but better on others.
For example, the 7800X3D performs very well in games because of the 3Dvcache. But in most applications it performs poorly because it only has 8 cores, so a 7950X3D would be a better choice, for games+applications. But it performs very well in Autocad, because this application loves that cache.
 

GHG

Member
Thanks for the tip. They both seem to be pretty comparable in price right now though, at least the ones in stock. I'm sure I could snipe a Super for less if I wait, but I'm over the purchasing process and just wanna get into the build. Thanks for the suggestion though!

Dude you rock, thanks so much for this. I am curious that both you and winjer winjer seem to highly recommend the upgraded CPU when UserBenchmark claims that there's little real world difference in performance, video editing or other CPU intensive apps aside I'm sure. It's not a "I don't trust you" thing at all, I'm just curious why.

The PSU looks nice. I had no opinion one way or the other, I only picked that first one because it was well reviewed, modular, and had the platinum rating for efficiency, so thanks for the suggestion on that. Thanks also for the tip on the RAM. I saw that most of these require RAM training and enabling bios OC settings to reach the fast speeds, so again I was just leaning on something inexpensive that reviewed well.

I saw both of those cases when I was searching, and pretty much every search ended up railroading me back to the Corsair 4000/5000 series cases, but there's just something about the aesthetic that doesn't jive with me. Though I do admit I hate spending 200~ dollars on any case in principle. I might mull that over one last time, but otherwise that build looks fantastic. I really appreciate you taking the time to help out.

For your use case (gaming) the 7800x3d is by far and away the better chip, even at 4k where you will see/feel a significant improvement in terms of frametimes and 1% lows.

No reason not to do it as long as it can fit within your budget.
 

Pejo

Member
Userbench is known to falsify data. Go to any hardware forum, and people will immediately call that site out for lying.
Those 2 other sites, I don't know about. But they seem the generic aggregator of synthetic benchmarks. Maybe not as bad as userbench, but also not good.

I recommend sites like Guru3d, Techpowerup, Techspot, Anandtech, Gamersnexus, etc.
These are trustworthy sites. Not perfect, because they are made by humans.
But they have a reputation that goes back several decades. They work directly with companies like AMD, Nvidia, Intel, Asus, Gigabyte, and many others.
They test real world applications and games. And have separate charts for games and applications. So we can see exactly how a GPU or CPU perform for each specific task.
And some applications might work better on some CPUs, but better on others.
For example, the 7800X3D performs very well in games because of the 3Dvcache. But in most applications it performs poorly because it only has 8 cores, so a 7950X3D would be a better choice, for games+applications. But it performs very well in Autocad, because this application loves that cache.
Thanks for the tips, I will check out those sites. I've visited Anandtech in the past but totally forgot about it. Regardless, I think I'll go ahead and run with the 7800X3D as suggested.
For your use case (gaming) the 7800x3d is by far and away the better chip, even at 4k where you will see/feel a significant improvement in terms of frametimes and 1% lows.

No reason not to do it as long as it can fit within your budget.
Fair enough, thanks again for your assistance. Now excuse me while I agonize about the case for another 15 hours. Maybe I'll just mount the internals to my wall and forego a case...
 

GHG

Member
If I'm shopping for ram, how would I be able to find this out?

Is there a RAM tier list like PSUs?



Also check the motherboard QVL list on the manufacturers website, some of them will list whether the ram is Samsung or hynix or other.

Generally though, if you see slower speeds with loose timings then it's likely to be Samsung which you want to avoid. From my research is seems a lot of DDR5 RAM issues that people have on AM5 stem from then having Samsung ram which ends up being unstable on the platform for whatever reason. Intel is less particular, although I don't know the ins and outs as to why this is.
 
Last edited:

Astray

Member


Also check the motherboard QVL list on the manufacturers website, some of them will list whether the ram is Samsung or hynix or other.

Generally though, if you see slower speeds with loose timings then it's likely to be Samsung which you want to avoid. From my research is seems a lot of DDR5 RAM issues that people have on AM5 stem from then having Samsung ram which ends up being unstable on the platform for whatever reason. Intel is less particular, although I don't know the ins and outs as to why this is.

Thanks, that solves part of the problem for me.

The other part is I don't really understand what timings are and how to gauge what timings are good or bad. Is it just the cas rating or something else?
 

DonkeyPunchJr

World’s Biggest Weeb
Thanks for the tips, I will check out those sites. I've visited Anandtech in the past but totally forgot about it. Regardless, I think I'll go ahead and run with the 7800X3D as suggested.

Fair enough, thanks again for your assistance. Now excuse me while I agonize about the case for another 15 hours. Maybe I'll just mount the internals to my wall and forego a case...
I’ve built in a 4000D Airflow and it’s a great case, but if I were in the market for a case in that price range today I’d go with Lian Li Lancool 216, have you checked that out? $100 and it comes with 2x 160mm fans (rgb or not) and a rear 140mm fan. Reviews are stellar and it looks pretty cool IMHO.
 

GHG

Member
Thanks, that solves part of the problem for me.

The other part is I don't really understand what timings are and how to gauge what timings are good or bad. Is it just the cas rating or something else?

Yes it's the CAS that you'll need to pay attention to. Typically you'll see the timings as a series of 4 numbers (xx-xx-xx-xx), you only need to pay attention to the first number.

Anything under (or as close to) 30 is good for AM5.
 

Pejo

Member
I’ve built in a 4000D Airflow and it’s a great case, but if I were in the market for a case in that price range today I’d go with Lian Li Lancool 216, have you checked that out? $100 and it comes with 2x 160mm fans (rgb or not) and a rear 140mm fan. Reviews are stellar and it looks pretty cool IMHO.
Yea that's actually one of the ones I'm (still) considering. I have watched so many YouTube case reviews now from random Brits, I think I've developed an accent. Now I'm trying to consider if I want to find something with a 5.25 drive bay in it because I have a hot swap HDD port that fits into that so I can easily swap and consolidate all of my old HDDs. Then I think about it and I can just buy a USB enclosure or a USB HDD hub. This case decision has got me paralyzed.

You ever heard of a company named JONSBO? They have some decent looking stuff but not a lot of reviews or info about them.
 

DonkeyPunchJr

World’s Biggest Weeb
Yea that's actually one of the ones I'm (still) considering. I have watched so many YouTube case reviews now from random Brits, I think I've developed an accent. Now I'm trying to consider if I want to find something with a 5.25 drive bay in it because I have a hot swap HDD port that fits into that so I can easily swap and consolidate all of my old HDDs. Then I think about it and I can just buy a USB enclosure or a USB HDD hub. This case decision has got me paralyzed.

You ever heard of a company named JONSBO? They have some decent looking stuff but not a lot of reviews or info about them.
I’ve heard of them but I have no personal experience. They’re a Chinese company and it seems like they get zero coverage from English speaking reviewers.

A 5.25” drive bay is really going to constrain your choices quite a bit. Personally I’d just get the USB enclosure.
 

Xyphie

Member
Now I'm trying to consider if I want to find something with a 5.25 drive bay in it because I have a hot swap HDD port that fits into that so I can easily swap and consolidate all of my old HDDs.

Look into the Fractal Design Pop series. It has a cover in front which very seamlessly conceals two 5.25" slots in the front. Available in a bunch of color options, solid/mesh fronts, glass/solid sidepanels.
 

DonkeyPunchJr

World’s Biggest Weeb
Look into the Fractal Design Pop series. It has a cover in front which very seamlessly conceals two 5.25" slots in the front. Available in a bunch of color options, solid/mesh fronts, glass/solid sidepanels.
Ahh yeah I could’ve sworn there was a recent-ish case with one. That would probably be my choice if I absolutely needed the 5.25” drive.
 

twilo99

Member
Look into the Fractal Design Pop series. It has a cover in front which very seamlessly conceals two 5.25" slots in the front. Available in a bunch of color options, solid/mesh fronts, glass/solid sidepanels.

I really like that pop silent case.. thanks for sharing I didn’t know these existed.

It’s actually very similar to this in terms of layout, which is what I have, it just seems to be better built.

 
Last edited:

WoJ

Member
I've never had a gaming PC before but am debating getting one. I don't want to build it, but would pay a company to build it for me. I don't play a ton of new stuff when it comes out. Usually a couple games a year. And I buy and play a lot of stuff within a couple years of launch. But if I wanted to play FF7 Rebrith at 60fps and 4k and say Cyberpunk at 60fps and 4k and say something like Mass Effect Legendary Edition at 4k 120fps what would I be looking at spending?

Also would probably use it for a lot of PS2, PS3, Wii, Wii U emulation.
 

JohnnyFootball

GerAlt-Right. Ciriously.
Hi!

Im upgrading from a 4070 Ti to a 4080 SUPER Founders Edition.

Will I be able to continue to use this PSU cable? https://www.corsair.com/us/en/p/pc-...5-0-12vhpwr-type-4-psu-power-cable-cp-8920284

It only has 2 cables, but I think for 4080 Super I need the end to have 3 cables right?
The one that Corsair provides is more than adequate for even a 4090. You're good. Corsair even mentions this somewhere on their website. The power that can be drawn from the 2 power sources is more than enough.

I ran that configuration on my 4090 for months and had no issues.
 
Last edited:

JohnnyFootball

GerAlt-Right. Ciriously.
I've never had a gaming PC before but am debating getting one. I don't want to build it, but would pay a company to build it for me. I don't play a ton of new stuff when it comes out. Usually a couple games a year. And I buy and play a lot of stuff within a couple years of launch. But if I wanted to play FF7 Rebrith at 60fps and 4k and say Cyberpunk at 60fps and 4k and say something like Mass Effect Legendary Edition at 4k 120fps what would I be looking at spending?

Also would probably use it for a lot of PS2, PS3, Wii, Wii U emulation.
I'd be on the lookout for anything with a 4070 Ti Super. Stuff from Lenovo is usually pretty good and goes on sale.
 
  • Like
Reactions: WoJ

MacReady13

Member
Maybe this is the wrong thread to ask this question but recently (I have only had my gaming PC for a month) every now and again, when shutting down my PC, I will get an Application Error box come up saying something along the lines of The Instruction at 0x0000000 etc...
I have tried to see if memory/ram is faulty and it all came up clear so I'm just wondering if this is a fault in my PC or if it something to worry about. I've tried googling and have gotten youtube videos showing how to fix it, but nothing works. Only thing I can think of is every so often I'll connect up an external 1tb Samsung SSD to watch films on and, once I've correctly disconnected it, when (and only when) I shut down my PC, that error code comes up and then disappears. Weird shit that i'd love to find a clear answer for and get it resolved...
 

JohnnyFootball

GerAlt-Right. Ciriously.
I've never had a gaming PC before but am debating getting one. I don't want to build it, but would pay a company to build it for me. I don't play a ton of new stuff when it comes out. Usually a couple games a year. And I buy and play a lot of stuff within a couple years of launch. But if I wanted to play FF7 Rebrith at 60fps and 4k and say Cyberpunk at 60fps and 4k and say something like Mass Effect Legendary Edition at 4k 120fps what would I be looking at spending?

Also would probably use it for a lot of PS2, PS3, Wii, Wii U emulation.
Here is a pretty good deal for a 4080 system. Not out of this world good, but if you can find online coupons you can save even more.

 
  • Like
Reactions: WoJ

TVexperto

Member
Z
The one that Corsair provides is more than adequate for even a 4090. You're good. Corsair even mentions this somewhere on their website. The power that can be drawn from the 2 power sources is more than enough.

I ran that configuration on my 4090 for months and had no issues.
Thanks! But why is NVIDIA saying to use 3 seperate cables with the adapter that comes with the 4080/4090? the corsair one only has 2
 

JohnnyFootball

GerAlt-Right. Ciriously.
Z

Thanks! But why is NVIDIA saying to use 3 seperate cables with the adapter that comes with the 4080/4090? the corsair one only has 2
I don’t know. All I’m telling you is that it will be fine. Corsair did the testing. I used it with a 4090 which draws far more power than a 4080.

IT WILL BE FINE!

They’re not going to open themselves up to potentially thousands of GPU claims by doing it wrong.

If your deadset on not trusting Corsair then use the damn 3 prong adaptor.
 
Last edited:

Fredrik

Member
Edit: You live and you learn…

So, this is what happens when you mount the Arctic Liquid Freezer III AM5 brackets upside down, L/R facing down:

Wow the Arctic Liquid Freezer III is the worst piece of shit ever created when it comes to mounting. Worst mounting method ever. Two screws and a bent metal plate you need to bend with the screws, probably made from adamantium, the force needed to get the screws to fasten is brutal. I eventually fastened the mb brackets to the cooler head instead so you get four screws, almost got it to work, but it snapped loose when I got concerned about the force needed and loosened the screws a bit.
Sold some Nvidia stocks, getting ready to have to buy another mb and cpu, if they survive this treatment then nobody need to ever worry about handling this stuff with care.

..,

🫣

A lesson learned.

When you mount the brackets the correct way, with the L/R up, it wasn’t too bad. The springed screws are annoying but still a fairly easy install process.

🤕

It’ll be interesting to see if the MB and CPU survived. I used a crazy amount of force when mounting it wrong.
 
Last edited:
Z

Thanks! But why is NVIDIA saying to use 3 seperate cables with the adapter that comes with the 4080/4090? the corsair one only has 2

What's your psu wattage? If your psu comes with the 12v cable you don't use the adapter, you just use the one 12v cable.
 
Last edited:

MikeM

Member
Maybe this is the wrong thread to ask this question but recently (I have only had my gaming PC for a month) every now and again, when shutting down my PC, I will get an Application Error box come up saying something along the lines of The Instruction at 0x0000000 etc...
I have tried to see if memory/ram is faulty and it all came up clear so I'm just wondering if this is a fault in my PC or if it something to worry about. I've tried googling and have gotten youtube videos showing how to fix it, but nothing works. Only thing I can think of is every so often I'll connect up an external 1tb Samsung SSD to watch films on and, once I've correctly disconnected it, when (and only when) I shut down my PC, that error code comes up and then disappears. Weird shit that i'd love to find a clear answer for and get it resolved...
I wouldn’t worry about it. I had that issue after a Windows update. It eventually went away.

Do you use an Xbox controller by chance?
 

Diseased Yak

Gold Member
So I want to get a better 2nd monitor, used almost exclusively for YouTube/Twitch streaming when I'm playing something on my primary monitor.

Someone throw out a great 4k monitor that's like 27" at the least. There are so many to choose from, I'm at a standstill on deciding. Cost is not important, I just want something with killer picture quality....
 

Gaelyon

Member
For YouTube/Twitch buy an OLED tv/monitor, you'll get the best picture and very low risk of burn in. Any recent model, like those 32" 4K QD OLED, are great.
 
Top Bottom