Shifty Capone1
Member
That's pretty cheap for a 1440p and G-Sync. Anyone have this monitor?
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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 2. Read the OP. Rocking 2500K's until HBM2 and beyond.
- Thread starter Hazaro
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That's pretty cheap for a 1440p and G-Sync. Anyone have this monitor?
GTA V bench i7 6700K 4.5Ghz, GTX 970 1545/3900Mhz.
2133Mhz RAM 14-14-14-32 1T
Frames Per Second (Higher is better) Min, Max, Avg
Pass 0, 18.919399, 130.429672, 105.724625
Pass 1, 54.240715, 266.444122, 91.000816
Pass 2, 62.944283, 133.330978, 95.989075
Pass 3, 78.638298, 228.398438, 104.319740
Pass 4, 55.647301, 151.414474, 103.899155
Time in milliseconds(ms). (Lower is better). Min, Max, Avg
Pass 0, 7.666967, 52.855801, 9.458534
Pass 1, 3.753132, 18.436335, 10.988913
Pass 2, 7.500133, 15.887067, 10.417852
Pass 3, 4.378314, 12.716450, 9.585914
Pass 4, 6.604388, 17.970324, 9.624718
3000Mhz 14-14-14-32-1T
Frames Per Second (Higher is better) Min, Max, Avg
Pass 0, 18.643572, 139.058121, 105.811989
Pass 1, 59.461735, 150.900955, 91.526115
Pass 2, 61.761429, 201.216797, 96.442490
Pass 3, 77.088058, 146.605331, 104.403549
Pass 4, 28.000837, 188.176392, 105.332840
Time in milliseconds(ms). (Lower is better). Min, Max, Avg
Pass 0, 7.191238, 53.637791, 9.450725
Pass 1, 6.626863, 16.817539, 10.925843
Pass 2, 4.969764, 16.191336, 10.368874
Pass 3, 6.821034, 12.972178, 9.578218
Pass 4, 5.314163, 35.713219, 9.493715
== SETTINGS ===
Display: 2103x1183 (FullScreen) @ 59Hz VSync OFF
Tessellation: 2
LodScale: 1.000000
PedLodBias: 0.200000
VehicleLodBias: 0.000000
ShadowQuality: 3
ReflectionQuality: 3
ReflectionMSAA: 0
SSAO: 2
AnisotropicFiltering: 0
MSAA: 0
MSAAFragments: 0
MSAAQuality: 0
SamplingMode: 0
TextureQuality: 2
ParticleQuality: 2
WaterQuality: 2
GrassQuality: 2
ShaderQuality: 2
Shadow_SoftShadows: 1
UltraShadows_Enabled: false
Shadow_ParticleShadows: true
Shadow_Distance: 1.100000
Shadow_LongShadows: false
Shadow_SplitZStart: 0.930000
Shadow_SplitZEnd: 0.890000
Shadow_aircraftExpWeight: 0.990000
Shadow_DisableScreenSizeCheck: false
Reflection_MipBlur: true
FXAA_Enabled: true
TXAA_Enabled: false
Lighting_FogVolumes: true
Shader_SSA: true
DX_Version: 2
CityDensity: 1.000000
PedVarietyMultiplier: 1.000000
VehicleVarietyMultiplier: 1.000000
PostFX: 2
DoF: true
HdStreamingInFlight: true
MaxLodScale: 0.100000
MotionBlurStrength: 0.100000
Vinterbird
Member
Everything ran fine with the stress tests. So I must be on a bad roll with the games then. Looking at all the FPS data from Doom, everything was in the red when a lot of enemies and particles where on screen. So it must just have been my computer being overloaded and quitting the game.
So everything is probably fine, and I'm just unlucky with my choice of games at the moment. Thanks for all the help.
If I have nothing within my BIOS that explicitely says "Load Line Calibration" or LLC then I should not bother with this correct?
That seems like a good deal. Tempted to pull the trigger.
Correct, but that means you might need to set a lot higher Vcore in BIOS as Vdrop and Vdroop can accumulate to up to 0.06v on average. What motherboard is this?
lordfuzzybutt
Member
@LilJoka, would like to have some ideas from you so I can shorten my testing time as I have absolutely no time and strength to do anything in the evening after work at 11pm.
Been trying to overclock my shitty 4670K and RAM. Largely, it's quite stable. By stable, I mean it can pass realbench 1hr.
However, in rare games, I would get freezes, which will have these looping sounds and require hard reset.
So if you have experience with this particular type of freezes, what's more likely?
The CPU is OC'd to 4.3 Ghz, 1.265vcore, LLC turbo, mobo Gigabyte z97x-sli.
The RAMs are 2 different sets of 2x4, both 1.5v and 1600mhz, 1 set is CL10, 1 set is CL9. OC'd to 1866, CL11, 1.64V.
Been trying to overclock my shitty 4670K and RAM. Largely, it's quite stable. By stable, I mean it can pass realbench 1hr.
However, in rare games, I would get freezes, which will have these looping sounds and require hard reset.
So if you have experience with this particular type of freezes, what's more likely?
The CPU is OC'd to 4.3 Ghz, 1.265vcore, LLC turbo, mobo Gigabyte z97x-sli.
The RAMs are 2 different sets of 2x4, both 1.5v and 1600mhz, 1 set is CL10, 1 set is CL9. OC'd to 1866, CL11, 1.64V.
Looping audio on crash can be sign of CPU/GPU OC instability.
Problem is, realbench is not enough in terms of stability testing, its a medium difficulty test to pass. So initial bets would be CPU instability. If temps are in check, just raise the Vcore 0.02v and see how it goes.
Also you need to test the LLC, a higher LLC mode will cause problems with transient multipliers - especially occurs in games since the load varies. A high LLC will starve the lower Multipliers of VCore and overshoot with intense load (hence the stability in Realbench).
So first get the LLC setting right, to be safe have the idle Vcore right above the Load Vcore. That can be one with Manual Vcore so its easier to judge. Test some games. If that fails, raise Vcore a couple of notches. If you arent using offset/adaptive already, then just check how the Vcore reacts under realbench, it should drop slightly under load, if it rises, then reduce the LLC level.
If you want to quickly test the RAM, spin up a Linux Mint Live CD on a USB drive.
In terminal run:
sudo apt-get update
sudo apt-get upgrade
sudo apt-get install stressapptest
stressapptest -W -s 3600
That will test the RAM for 1 hour. It actually tries to spike power to simulate transients, so be sure the CPU is stable before running this else youll cause yourself a headache of confusion. You could just switch the CPU to 4.2Ghz and run this to ensure the CPU is really stable.
Edit
Haswell LLC works differently due to the FIVR, so just reading that on the Gigabyte Turbo LLC on the VRin and VCCin is fine.
Your issue will likely just be a tad too little Vcore.
Vinterbird
Member
I have a Gigabyte GA-Z68XP-UD3P
lordfuzzybutt
Member
Very useful, especially the RAM test. Thanks man.
I lean a bit on the RAM because of some reasons. Does going over 1.65 harm the board and RAM ?
Good thing I still have thermal headroom, just need to distance myself from the tower somehow so it doesn't heat me up too much. Gonna raise VCore just a little bit more and test a bit tonight.
Try Advanced Voltage Settings -> Multi step Load Line.
1.65v is ok, yep could still be RAM, but just rule it out by reducing the CPU multi by 1 and running the RAM Test with the Linux Mint Live CD.
Vinterbird
Member
Multi-Step Load Line gives me the option of a set of numbers from 1 to 10. Default had it set to "Disabled".
Do I want this to just go as high as possible ?
lordfuzzybutt
Member
My board doesn't allow me to set it at exact 1.65, it goes from 1.64 to 1.66 and I cannot type it in like I do CPU vcore.
But there's enough information and testings that I can do for now. Cheers.
pressed the overclock button in bios on my i5 2500 @ 3300
2 minutes into playing The Division, the arse blew out of my PSU.
said PSU was rated at 650W and recently upgraded my graphics card to an R9 390X.
just installed a new PSU rated at 850W and now too scared to set the i5 in overclock mode incase i blow the arse out of this one.
never a dull moment
2 minutes into playing The Division, the arse blew out of my PSU.
said PSU was rated at 650W and recently upgraded my graphics card to an R9 390X.
just installed a new PSU rated at 850W and now too scared to set the i5 in overclock mode incase i blow the arse out of this one.
never a dull moment
Cute Dragon Here
Member
What were the PSUs?
opticalmace
Member
What model was the old PSU? New PSU?
I would never use an auto overclock feature personally. Do it manually so you know exactly what it's doing.
I looked through the TOS and couldn't find anything against posting this. If I missed anything let me know and I'll remove.
There is currently a giveaway on the next web for $1k newegg gift card. Could help quite a bit with upgrades or building a new PC.
https://deals.thenextweb.com/giveaways/the-1000-to-newegg-giveaway?gid=3063588
There is currently a giveaway on the next web for $1k newegg gift card. Could help quite a bit with upgrades or building a new PC.
https://deals.thenextweb.com/giveaways/the-1000-to-newegg-giveaway?gid=3063588
Any recommendation for CPU fan curves? Ordered a PWM splitter the other day to control my two CPU fans and I'm wondering how to set it up. Currently both fans (1x120, 1x140) run at full speed and keep my 4790k (1,2v) at 30~35°C in idle and 60°C under full load (x264 rendering).
Anything wrong with setting it up so that the fans only spin at >50°C? Just looking to make my desktop work / web browsing experience less noisy.
Anything wrong with setting it up so that the fans only spin at >50°C? Just looking to make my desktop work / web browsing experience less noisy.
Hey GAF, I've been looking for a new display for awhile and came across this 34" LG one on newegg. Anyone have any experiences with it? Price seems pretty good.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824005700&cm_re=21%3a9-_-24-005-700-_-Product
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824005700&cm_re=21%3a9-_-24-005-700-_-Product
Would the following build be able to get into the EVGA Hadron? I have no desire for another tower case. I'm also open to suggestions for other mini cases.
- Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz
- ASRock H170A-X1/3.1 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard
- Crucial 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory
- Crucial MX200 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive
- Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
- MSI GeForce GTX 970 4GB Twin Frozr V Video Card
- EVGA 750W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply
I've owned the 34UM95 since launch and it's incredible. Highly recommend that series, assuming you can get one with minimal backlight bleed.
Pretty sure there have been better prices for that model, though. I'd hold out for it to hit ~400 again.
Great, thanks for the review! I'll do some deal searching.
Set to Level 5 to begin with. Then check in CPUz if the load Vcore is more/less than idle.
The higher you set this level, the higher the Load Vcore will be above idle.
You want to set this level as low as possible (mistake in my initial post) whilst keeping that Load Vcore right below the idle Vcore, as close as you can.
Yeh no biggie, there is always a drop in VDIMM under load too.
The Hadron is a mITX case so you'd need a mITX board to begin with.
Also it already has a built-in 500W power supply (probably SFX form factor, didn't find any info).
The 970 could be a tight fit; MSI says it's 269mm, Hadron spec sheet claims support up to 267mm
Ah okay, I see how that works. I'll have a look a bit later on the motherboard options and graphics options and will update later. I'll have a look at the OP again too. Thanks.
the old i killed was Powercool PC-650AUBA-M
the new victim is a Corsair RM850 http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/corsair-rm850-850w-fully-modular-atx-80-plus-gold-power-supply-a59lw
I have no idea overclocking wise but i bough the motherboard and cpu with overclocking features from www.overclockers.co.uk so i thought it would be safe to press the OC button
now looking up a thesaurus so that i can stop saying overclocking like its my new favorite word
Vinterbird
Member
So to be sure that I get this, sorry this is so far from my area of expertise:
I give my LLC a number of 5 - middle of the road option.
I increase my voltage to the CPU from 1.224 to 1.4.
Or do I go above? Another person said to just throw it up to 1.35 and be done with it. But do I run a risk with that approach?
Your old PSU had 30A on the 12v rail, so its really only 360W of useful wattage. The rest is allocated for all your floppy drives. This is why you dont buy cheap PSUs, your whole system could have been hosed.
Youll have much better luck with the RM850, but now you have bought a very poor choice out of the choice you have of decent PSUs. 850W is too much, your rig would do fine on a 550W or 650W at most. RM series isnt the best quality either in terms of voltage ripple. RMx 550 would have been a much better choice at half the price.
First lets explain what happened the first time:
You measure 1.24v load Vcore in CPUz
You set 1.24v for CPU Vcore in BIOS
You left Load Line calibration (LLC) disabled.
You end up with BSODs.
This is because LLC was disabled. You got VDrop from BIOS setting to Idle of (guessing off avg's) -0.03v, you got VDroop (idle to load (loading windows)) of -0.03v. You end up with about 1.18v Vcore. System crashes.
Intel designed the system to never exceed the BIOS set Vcore, this is why we see Vdrop and Vdroop.
LLC compensates for VDrop and VDroop. Essentially it boosts Vcore a little when under load. It ignores Intel Spec. But required to overclock with more success.
Now we try once more.
This time we can set 1.28v Vcore in BIOS.
We set LLC Level 5 (our guess would say the load vcore will now be compensated around 0.04v).
So from our guesses, we have 1.28v - Vdrop (0.02v) - VDroop (0.03v) + LLC (0.04)= 1.27v -> This albeit less than what we measured is much closer, so this should boot OK.
So give that a go, 1.28v CPU Vcore, LLC Level 5.
===============
As to using 1.35 or 1.40v, well thats also fine, just not as safe. I dont know how the LLC Levels scale on your board, and nor do you. Say you set 1.40v, and LLC Level 5. Then you load Prime95 and LLC causes Vcore to go to 1.45v? Then your likely to hit 90c+ within a matter of seconds. Why bother to do this. Youll only have to go back and start tweaking downwards. I would advise to start low in safe regions where nothing could go wrong than take this method. This part is just about learning how your board handles Vcore (Vdrop and VDroop). Once you know this you can set a Vcore in BIOS and know exactly what load vcore youll have without rebooting 15 times to adjust.
CaptainSmirnov
Member
Whaaat. I'm seeing for $719.99. Link?
My electrician instinct kicked in. If my pc fried a 650w PSU my thinking was "more power"
admittedly i didnt read much into them but i really needed a new PSU hence shopping at maplins and i thought Corsair was a half decent make
i have let it ran for an hour and nothing went wrong .
for clarification the only time i seem to get a bsods or crashes is when downloading games and browsing YouTube together for example .
So, I've edited my above build to accommodate the EVGA Hadron based on Haz's spreadsheet and another user on PCPartPicker. It now is:
The grand total is just under £500, which seems like excellent value. I considered including a disk drive but it seemed night on pointless in 2016.
The only snag I've come across is that it seems like the case needs to be on a desk for the ventilation to work properly. I don't know if others with the case can confirm this?
- Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz
- EVGA ACX mITX 46.5 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler
- Gigabyte GA-H170N-WIFI Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard
- Crucial 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133
- Crucial MX100 256GB 2.5" SSD
- Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM HD
- Sapphire Radeon R9 280X 3GB Dual-X Video Card
- EVGA Hadron Mini ITX.
The grand total is just under £500, which seems like excellent value. I considered including a disk drive but it seemed night on pointless in 2016.
The only snag I've come across is that it seems like the case needs to be on a desk for the ventilation to work properly. I don't know if others with the case can confirm this?
Thought about a Node 304 instead? Can get larger wattage PSUs, and will end up quieter than the SFX PSU in te Hadron. Plus more room for larger GPUs. Less plastic too.
Hadron on hard floor should be fine.
Vinterbird
Member
So I changed the CPU Vcore to 1,25 and changed the LLC to Level 5, and it now boots as normally.
Core Voltage changed from 0,96 in idle (default settings) to idle at around 1,14 now.
Do I now start to run tests with Prime95, or do I push on further with higher Vcore ?
draughn101
Member
There's a bunch of impressions in the G-Sync thread. It's pretty good. Gaming wise, it's awesome, smooth as silk. It is built like a tank. I don't have issues with the viewing angles, but that's something some complain about. The colors won't blow your mind but they are pretty good. I have trouble with brightness,so it's nice to have a monitor I can turn down and not get sick from the flicker.
What is the load Vcore? Run Prime95 to test. My bet is that it will crash instantly.
No, I hadn't thought about that. It's wider and deeper than the Hadron, but shorter, and cheaper too.
Do you have any experienced with it, or does anyone else? And what about it being placed on the floor? That's crucial for me.
On the flip side I won't be upgrading for a while so is the extra room and PSU needed really?
I have my build in a node 304 (i7 6700k, MSI GAMER GTX 970). So i know my way around it.
The PSU fan does face the bottom of the case. It has a dust filter and rubber feet, but i would only put it on the floor if you have hard floor, not carpet.
Depends if you think youll be ok swapping cases in the future if need be. Could be better if you do end up wanting something fresh. And also depends if you want the cube/tower form factor.
Its cheaper, but doesnt include PSU, whoch would be be around £60.
Alright, I've upgraded to an i7 6700k/ASUS z170-a MB. Using a Corsair H80.
Didn't touch a thing in the BIOS; ran Prime95 and my max temps are hitting 81c. Idle, I'm sitting at 20c on average. This is at a stock turbo boost of 4.2GHz.
Is it possible the default vcore is just ridiculously high and raising the temps? I manually set a vcore of 1.25 and my temps are capping out at 71c now. Isn't that still pretty damn high for stock speeds? Was thinking I'd be hitting those temps with a pushed OC, like 4.6 or higher..
Didn't touch a thing in the BIOS; ran Prime95 and my max temps are hitting 81c. Idle, I'm sitting at 20c on average. This is at a stock turbo boost of 4.2GHz.
Is it possible the default vcore is just ridiculously high and raising the temps? I manually set a vcore of 1.25 and my temps are capping out at 71c now. Isn't that still pretty damn high for stock speeds? Was thinking I'd be hitting those temps with a pushed OC, like 4.6 or higher..
My floor is wooden so it sounds like I'm good in that regard.
I think I'll go for the EVGA because I won't be upgrade anytime soon (plus it's cheaper). The build will be good for a while won't it?
Thanks for the advice anyway.
Gen.Grievous
Member
Prime stresses a CPU beyond any reasonable use case scenario. Reaching 81C is not that strange, also keep in mind it is only a small rad and single fan cooler.
Hey folks, a friend of mine is looking to get a top of the line new PC soon. He's eyeing something up with a 980 Ti in and obviously I'm telling him to wait and get the 1080. He's also got his heart set on a (pretty awesome looking) prebuild. But I'm sure it'd be cheaper to get parts. Can someone help me out putting together a build like it? It'd need to be somewhere that would build it since they don't want to mess.
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/tita...-i7-6700k-4.5ghz-gtx-980ti-6gb-fs-111-og.html
The rig they're looking at. Also, is that case/wire set up available seperately? They have their heart set on it.
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/tita...-i7-6700k-4.5ghz-gtx-980ti-6gb-fs-111-og.html
The rig they're looking at. Also, is that case/wire set up available seperately? They have their heart set on it.
trailmix16
Member
Interesting...am I incorrect that the Node 304 is smaller than the Core V1? I like the look of the Node 304 better, but Im not sure if all the components will fit?
So I want to get a new Monitor for the 1070 / 80 release and I see this thing is now on sale....
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...-_-N82E16824260333&scpid=7&scid=scsho13869085
What do you say GAF? Is it worth the pickup for 480?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...-_-N82E16824260333&scpid=7&scid=scsho13869085
What do you say GAF? Is it worth the pickup for 480?
draughn101
Member
Is there another you'd recommend. I'd like to give my new build a little test. Same specs as above. Sitting at 25C idle.
I've never used one before, but here's a massive review that covers everything you might want to know about though.
trailmix16
Member
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($194.89 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-H170N-WIFI Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard ($113.89 @ Amazon)
Memory: Kingston HyperX Fury Black 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($59.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($85.79 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($46.98 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Sapphire Radeon R9 380 4GB NITRO Dual-X OC Video Card ($179.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Thermaltake Core V1 Mini ITX Tower Case ($32.99 @ Micro Center)
Power Supply: EVGA 600B 600W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($39.99 @ NCIX US)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Pro OEM (64-bit) (Purchased For $0.00)
Total: $754.51
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