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[BlackClouds]

I have one of those huge crt rptv's with only 2 component inputs, one of which is shared with a dvi hdcp input., Trying to figure out what I'd need to be future proof (ie, not having to buy yet another switcher down the road. I have now, an xbox, cable dvr, progressive scan dvd player, and I plan on adding a htpc sometime in the next year as well as one or two next gen systems, so a 4 way would not be enough. But I'm in the market for a new audio/video receiver, and that should at least have 3 way component switching.

I figure I'll just dig out one of those cheap composite switching devices and use that as a work around until something comes out that's not too expensive and has enough a/v inputs to work so I can set it and forget it.

 

[GamePnoy74]

From what I understand about component switchers you need a box that will carry HD signals with enough bandwidth for up to 1080i, supposedly 40Mhz or more. For HD signals above that (1080p) you're gonna be in DVI/HDMI territory so you can't really use component for the full effect.

I'm currently looking at a Onkyo reciever that handles three component switching.

ArcadeStickMonk I just bought the Onkyo 503 receiver myself it's great =) The 503 has a 50MHz component switch so it should be fine for up to 1080i HD signals. I don't use the receiver for video switching myself though since my TV has 4 components inputs built in (I prefer having my video components directly connected to the TV as much as I can and just use the receiver strictly for audio).

FYI, the Onkyo 573 and 603 receivers have a 100MHz bandwidth component switch but they cost more.

Edit: Is 50MHz switching good enough for 720p?

 

[Cronox]

Why you shouldn't get a Pelican System Selector Pro: click here

Bandwidth is sufficient for 480p, but not for HDTV.

What you should get: something from here

Discuss.

 

[Flynn]

I'm in the market for one of these. Thanks for all the suggestions.

 

[Kato]

Very, very happy with the Inday RGB4X-R (4 x component)
Comes with a remote (which can be used also for the Inday Toslink/Coax switcher), has very high wideband (>230Mhz) for up to 1080i with no loss what so ever.

http://www.inday.com

 

[empanada]

This one is not bad and still reasonably priced. JVC JX-66

 

[Javaman]

The whole MHZ limited switching sounds like a load of crap to me. Perhaps it can be a problem when dealing with circuitry managed switching, but for relay controlled or mechanical switches, bandwidth should not be a problem. Just get a cheap RCA one with a nice solid "CHUNK" when switching sources.

It's not the same as component obviously but I've been running a cheap switch backwards to split SVideo to my TV and projector without any visible signal degredation.

*Edit added "any visible". Of course there will be some signal loss whenever you add junctions to a line.

 

[Beatbox]

Thanks for the link. I am a bit curious because that Pelican review is by the same company who sells their own component switchers...do we have any independent tests or reviews?

I have a Pelican component switcher and couldn't be happier with it. I am using it on my 57" Toshiba 57H83. I have NOT noticed any degredation in picture quality caused by this unit. Obviously the word "noticed" is key here since there is no way for me to A/B it and even them I am sure it would be tough to tell.

Since only GT4 is in 1080i - I can factually say that it looks much much better then any other game and is clearly clearer then any progressive scan game including itself run in progressive scan. I would bet all my marbles (don't have that many to begin with) that the Pelican system is capable of a much higher signal then 480P.

 

[empanada]

The whole MHZ limited switching sounds like a load of crap to me. Perhaps it can be a problem when dealing with circuitry managed switching, but for relay controlled or mechanical switches, bandwidth should not be a problem. Just get a cheap RCA one with a nice solid "CHUNK" when switching sources.

It's not the same as component obviously but I've been running a cheap switch backwards to split SVideo to my TV and projector without signal degredation.

This is probably the cheapest solution you can get. And it should pass the full bandwidth too.

 

[scarybore]

For the UKers here, ill be getting the AV Control Center 240 upon its release.

The previous models were great for RGB scart switching and you can actually already use component on them if you buy some cables that allow you to put 2 of the component cables through the Svideo ports. However I need the Svideo slots for other purposes so that aint for me but you can find more info on that solution here (you will need to be a member to see the thread, and the forums going real slow atm).

 

[alr1ght]

get the authority if you have an HDTV. if you're playing on a regular 480i set get a cheaper one. i have the audio authority and it works flawlessly. Its the only one i've seen that does optical audio switching, which you'll want if you have a 5.1 system. they seem to have jacked the price up recently though, as i got mine for around $140 about 6 months ago.

 

[Beatbox]

get the authority if you have an HDTV. if you're playing on a regular 480i set get a cheaper one. i have the audio authority and it works flawlessly. Its the only one i've seen that does optical audio switching, which you'll want if you have a 5.1 system. they seem to have jacked the price up recently though, as i got mine for around $140 about 6 months ago.

FYI The Pelican one has optical switching as well.

 

[Sh0k]

My TV has an extra DVI input, is there any way of converting any XBOX 360 outputs to DVI ?

 

[DaCocoBrova]

The whole MHZ limited switching sounds like a load of crap to me. Perhaps it can be a problem when dealing with circuitry managed switching, but for relay controlled or mechanical switches, bandwidth should not be a problem. Just get a cheap RCA one with a nice solid "CHUNK" when switching sources.

Many use their receivers to handle video switching. I used to. Most affordable receivers that handle video switching don't have enough bandwidth for a progressive signal. Far from a load of crap when the screen is black on a progressive source.

 

[DaveT]

In testing, the Pelican Box did have a slight loss in quality, but I seriously doubt anyone will be able notice with the naked eye unless you are a nutcase.

In all seriousness, the cheapest HD Component switch box that passes through HDTV full quality is about $250 and is the CSM42 from Video Storm. Actually, probably the only box under $1000 that can do it. Simply an amazing box for the price.

The CSM42 can handle 100ft component cables with absolutely no degredation.

 

[mrklaw]

I'm leaning towards a scancom switcher (I have a scancom Svideo one at the mo)

4 input, 2 output so I can feed the same thing to the TV and the projector, which is really handy

interesting Death... I'll have to check out that switcher too. although I could route all my optical via my receiver, as it'll only be needed if its switched on.

 

[darscot]

I just bought two composite switchers one for audio and one for my components works like a charm and you can find composite switcher for peanuts.

 

[Yusaku]

I got the Impact Acoustics box I was talking about earlier. So far I like it. I don't get all the grainyness I was getting with the Pelican one with the Xbox. I used my learning universal remote to learn the remote codes, so now I can switch inputs without having to get up, which is awesome. I actually like that it doesn't have AV/s-video support, makes the unit more compact.

 

[trmas]

www.cablewholesale.com

I frequently buy from these guys at work (Cisco cables), but their component cables, switchers, HDMI/DVI adapters, DVI and HDMI cables, IEEE cables, etc are all excellent quality.

They have a HD capable component switcher for $70 that is really nice.

 

[Stinkles]

Many use their receivers to handle video switching. I used to. Most affordable receivers that handle video switching don't have enough bandwidth for a progressive signal. Far from a load of crap when the screen is black on a progressive source.

WHAT?!!!


I have a $25 piece of shit that does it with no degredation whatsoever. 480p, 720p, 1080i.


You're saying that recievers for some reason can't do a physical passthrough? I am baffled.


Also, pelican's new, 360 specific one has a little LCD monitor on the front and is $99. Available in November.

 

[SpokkX]

has anyone tried a mechanical switch on 720p sources?

is the degradation noticable?

 

[Blimblim]

In testing, the Pelican Box did have a slight loss in quality, but I seriously doubt anyone will be able notice with the naked eye unless you are a nutcase.

In all seriousness, the cheapest HD Component switch box that passes through HDTV full quality is about $250 and is the CSM42 from Video Storm. Actually, probably the only box under $1000 that can do it. Simply an amazing box for the price.

The CSM42 can handle 100ft component cables with absolutely no degredation.

I just ordered this one. My biggest selling point was that it can also output the signal to two screens at the same time. It will be VERY useful real soon hopefully

 

[mrklaw]

OK, probably changing my mind.

Now I'm looking at the Audio Authority 1154A (auto switching will be handy with Xbox360 remote on/off). Or the Zektor HD4.2 - 4 input, 2 output component switcher.

the zektor has the advantage of an official European distributor (based in the UK), but it is v.expensive (around £300 compared to £100 for the scancom/AA1154)


That videostorm one looks interesting too - but the new CSW62, which is 6 in, 2 out non-matrix switcher (so cheaper than the 42). I don't need matrix switching, two identical outputs is perfect.

 

[Brandon F]

I used a standard Composite switcher for about a year until upgrading to the Pelican box which I've had for about a year since. Didn't notice a difference at all.

 

[Cronox]

Thanks for the link. I am a bit curious because that Pelican review is by the same company who sells their own component switchers...do we have any independent tests or reviews?

I have a Pelican component switcher and couldn't be happier with it. I am using it on my 57" Toshiba 57H83. I have NOT noticed any degredation in picture quality caused by this unit. Obviously the word "noticed" is key here since there is no way for me to A/B it and even them I am sure it would be tough to tell.

Since only GT4 is in 1080i - I can factually say that it looks much much better then any other game and is clearly clearer then any progressive scan game including itself run in progressive scan. I would bet all my marbles (don't have that many to begin with) that the Pelican system is capable of a much higher signal then 480P.

I've heard that GT4 isn't true 1080i somewhere. We may not have a good video game test until a 1080i Xbox360 game... The only real test for the pelican is with a true HD format like HDTV broadcasting.

 

[Beatbox]

I've heard that GT4 isn't true 1080i somewhere. We may not have a good video game test until a 1080i Xbox360 game... The only real test for the pelican is with a true HD format like HDTV broadcasting.

Fortunately this TV won't be getting any XBOX360 loving. I have ran my Comcast HD DVR at 1080i through the Pelican with the same verdict - looks awesome. Anyways, I love my Pelican and you should too

 

[Cronox]

Fortunately this TV won't be getting any XBOX360 loving. I have ran my Comcast HD DVR at 1080i through the Pelican with the same verdict - looks awesome. Anyways, I love my Pelican and you should too

I love my Video Storm CSW02

 

[mrklaw]

apparantly you shouldn't use the LR audio for switching component video, as the resistance is too high. An alternative is to use the Svideo input, with a converter cable to separate out the chroma and luminance channels to two phonos. You use these, in conjunction with the yellow composite cable to give you the three component cable connections.

 

[Yusaku]

Also, pelican's new, 360 specific one has a little LCD monitor on the front and is $99. Available in November.

I'd really recomend against Pelican's stuff. My old composite Pelican switch flaked out, and now my component Pelican switch has flaked out as well. These products are not built to last. The fact that that thing includes an LCD (what the fuck for?) just ensures that less money is spent on the actual components that matter.